A Day Off in Smith Rock

Posted by Alex on 14 October 2009

Having spent a year in Oregon on a university exchange 5 years ago, Smith Rock has become one of those places that I know I will always return to. As a day off from cycling and to give my legs a rest, Mikio and I headed out to central Oregon to climb "Monkey Space", a rather exposed route on the picturesque Monkey Face tower at Smith Rock.

Although I had already climbed this route three years ago, I was extremely excited to do it again as it combines relatively easy climbing with stunning views of the area and a real feeling of exposure, the route crossing out over 300ft of air. Arriving at the base of the tower, we prepared all the gear to start the ascent, a three pitch climb that curls round the Monkey Face to end up at the top, some 350ft above the ground. The first pitch is an easy scramble over boulders and up a ridge to the base of the vertical face, at which point the second pitch traverses 45ft out over 250ft of nothingness to finish in the back of the "neck" of the monkey. The third pitch start out of the far end of the neck and entails a rather energetic lunge out into space. Although the route is extremely well equiped and regularly checked, the vast space below your soles while climbing is enough to make you question everything and it becomes a real mind game to make it to the top.

After a few falls and a lot of shaking, Mikio and I finally made it to the top of the Monkey Face, with just enough daylight to enjoy the enourmous 200ft abseil off the tower. As if that were not enough of a reward, we indulged in another large burger and a pint. All in all, great day out of the office.

15 comments. Tags: Alex, Smith Rock, Mikio. Location: Corvallis, USA

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