Oaxaca, Mexico

Posted by Fin on 15 January 2010

Having consulted Ron, our cycling guru from Anchorage, Alex adjusted the height of his saddle to see if it would help his knee pain. Since doing this we have had one of our greatest tests yet, a climb uphill to 2700 metres (approx 8500 feet) in Oaxaca State up and over the Sierra Madre del Sur, to get back to the coast from the city of Oaxaca. Amazingly Alex's knee has held up fine. Its incredible how a tiny adjustment to the bike can cause such a great problem and then at the same time sort it out with another tiny tweak.

We had a great time in Oaxaca, mainly down to the superb coffee and beautiful architecture of the city, but also due to a visit to Monte Alban an awe inspiring ancient Zapotec city dating back to 500BC and also UNESCO World Heritage Site. We were almost thrown out for filming without a permit as they were not convinced that our huge HD camera and tripod was for personal use! Conviscating only the tripod they let us go and we managed to sneak a few shots.

We had been told the 300km road over the mountains back to the coast in Oaxaca was one of the most dangerous in Mexico due to steep grades and switchbacks. As a result we found an old map with gravel roads that went through the mountains we thought might be safer. By the end of the first day of riding in out of traffic and bustling towns we found the gravel road and headed off up into the hills. Within a few hours several 4 x 4 drivers passed up and stopped to explain that it was not possible to cross this track over the mountain. With a lengthy discussion, reluctantly we headed back to the main road. Fortunately on the second day when the road started to climb, it was so steep and acute that semi automatic haulage trucks and major commercial buses could not drive it. Bliss! Finally a road to enjoy free of major traffic.

It took 6 hours to climb to the top, back and forth up to 2700m (approx 8500 feet) with amazing views, changing from dry arid dusty habitat at lower elevation to cold pine forest at the top. The following day we had the most incredible downhill ride of the whole journey so far - from 2700m all the way down to the sea. Up and over the mountain we entered tropic jungle habitat with the temperatures rising rapidly with every corner as we sped down the mountain for hours without having to pedal a single stroke.

On the coastal road the traffic returned, but our exhileration from the 2 day ride up and over the mountain had resparked our passion and motivation. It was an incredible ride. On the way we were past by Eric and Paul, two brothers on motorbikes we had met a few days before in Oaxaca city (riding from Portland to South America), who told up about a fabulous rustic surf camp at Barra de la Cruz. We holed up there for a few days R and R.

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